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Perfect Paint for a VINTAGE 12″ Jointer – Restoration How-To [Part 1]

[Music] i bought an old 12-inch german jointer it wasn't exactly ready to use in fact it's kind of in a hundred pieces but i got a great deal on it and it's gonna be a serious upgrade to my little rockwell jointer stick around to see how i begin the restoration [Music] to make a long story short i saw this jointer over a year ago on kijiji but i passed up on an incredible deal fast forward to a couple of months ago and i found the same guy who bought it on youtube we struck up a conversation and one thing led to another and now i'm the new owner of the jointer i can immediately start cleaning parts because the previous owner had disassembled it to restore it but he lost interest somewhere along the way a lot of the parts had that sort of surface rust patina so i got a bottle of evaporate and i went to town soaking everything let me just say this evaporate is amazing you soak parts in it for 12 hours rinse them off with water give them a once-over with maroon scotch bright and wipe them clean looks like it was machined yesterday and the best part is it can get into all the nooks and crannies that my big fingers can't reach before going any further i had a few parts left to disassemble on the fence and tables [Music] once i finished i could start to remove the paint you see i'd be fine with giving everything a quick sand and applying new paint over the old but the previous owner had sandblasted the cast iron base in some of the small parts as well it would feel wrong to paint over a half strip project so i decided to take the rest of the paint off this was more arduous than expected i first tried to use a chemical stripper known as super remover automotive stripper you put it on fairly thick wrap it in saran wrap and then the paint should scrape right off in 12 hours this wasn't quite as straightforward as i'd hoped first off the odor was a little intense and it gave me a headache pretty quick second the paint was very thick over the cast iron base and some of the smaller cast parts too it seemed like the stripper could not penetrate deep enough and i would only be scraping off a fraction of the entire depth of the paint you see they used a pretty thick lead-based filler over the cast iron parts to fill imperfections i will say this though a few of the smaller machine parts that didn't receive any filler the paint came off like a dream [Music] it's been a lot of elbow grease and i'm constantly questioning myself why am i doing this when i could just easily paint right over this so i'm not admitting defeat but in my head the stripper was going to be way less labor intensive than using an angle grinder clearly not so [Music] i used a clean and strip disc on my angle grinder which worked out phenomenally well it was crazy dusty but the job went fast if you're not familiar with a clean strip disc it's kind of like a really dense scotch brite for your angle grinder it works well because the disc doesn't get gummed up with paint like sandpaper would instead it deteriorates as the abrasive is spin and exposes new grit so its effectiveness is constant until there's nothing left after that i used a grinding wheel to knock down some particularly high spots and i finished up with the flappy sandy disc thingy the clean and strip disc was useful for the paint on smaller parts as well [Music] i also wanted to clean up the name plate since there were places where the casting process didn't go so well i used a dremel with a couple of different size diamond balls on the end of my little wand thing the sandblasting exposed some pretty deep casting defects that would need to be filled before applying primer and paint this is my first time using bondo and the process went smoothly the most important part is timing when you let it set up for about 15 minutes it sets up to the consistency of cheese you can then take a rasp and grate off the high spots and you're left with only a little sanding to do i wasn't striving for perfection as this is a machine not a 56 chevy but i think the results are more than acceptable i spent more my efforts on the front of the base as this will be seen most often i also had to fill a few holes created over the years for modern switch gear before i could start priming i got my girlfriend to help me mask off all the machine surfaces so she didn't feel left out why are you wasting it then i can start to prime or at least i thought i could [Music] now i could start to prime i'm using a self-etching primer to start i've seen mixed reviews about using a self-etch primer over bondo and that it's more ideal to bondo over self-etch primer but there was existing filler remaining so i just went with what seemed [Music] consistent [Music] i then switched to a filler primer which has a high solids content that fills tiny consistencies to make my half-assed bondo job look a little better now i can paint yay paint i'm using rust-oleum's black stainless steel and i'm really digging this color i wanted something darker than your typical delta gray yet not black and something a bit warmer than charcoal so this really satisfied my vision [Music] i wanted to pick the castle lettering out in a contrasting color so i almost used this crimson ceramic paint but i thought it was too bright and saturated i might go with a darker red or maybe a silver we'll see let me know in the comments what you think i should do with a [Music] lettering [Music] [Music] since i bought the machine fully disassembled i wanted to partially assemble it so i can see it near its final form before i put this project to rest for now this is because there are some broken and missing parts that i need to make or have made for this to be a functional machine namely the elevation mechanisms for both the infeed and outfeed tables there's no crown guard for the cutter head and no belt guard for the back there will need to be something made to interface the chute with my dust collection system and i want to reuse the original switch location too after i get the parts made i'll do a final cleaning on all the machined surfaces before final assembly it doesn't make sense to do that now because they'll probably flash rust the reason why i can't go ahead and make these parts now is because i don't have access to the machine shop that i normally do because of the pandemic it's kind of a bummer but it also gives me a break and gets me back to woodworking projects that being said if you are or you know a machinist who's willing to collaborate on this with me hit me up next time i'm going to be putting together my dust collection system after moving shops a couple of months ago it's not going to be your typical dust collection system either let's just say it's going to be a tossum please subscribe so you don't miss it and give me a thumbs up to convince me to finish this dang joiner thanks for watching you

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