ever dream of building your own comfy Outdoor Oasis but are intimidated by all the fancy workshops and expensive tools you see on YouTube well you're not alone today we're ditching the industrial machines for a project that anyone can tackle a Sleek modern patio chair set with integrated storage for cushions built with just a circular saw router drill and a whole bunch of tips and tricks that I'll show you along the way even though these chairs look complicated I'll be able to skip all my big machines and cut all my parts down using just my circular saw with the help of a couple of jigs now I bought these but there are versions that you can make yourself with a little bit of effort and also I designed the entire chair to work with dimensional Lumber sizes so all the parts are going to be either 3/4 of an inch thick or an inch and a half thick so that means you don't need a planer or any other big machine for that matter I'm using this circular saw track straight edge jig thing here on the parts that came out of my 2x12s because although they might be straight enough to bang a house together they're certainly not straight enough for more refined projects like this so do yourself a favor and pick up this or something like this or you can make your own version of this cuz otherwise you're just going to get yourself into a world of pain dealing with boards that aren't straight even though this is nice and straight it wasn't as smooth as I was expecting and then I remembered oh yeah I bought a new blade for my circular sock is this thing it's like six or seven or eight years old and it's a stock blade on the saw so no wonder that is mucho better I'll leave a link in the description for the blade I'm using now it turns out it's pretty decent this is a circular saw ripping guide and it's the second most useful guide for the circular saw I own it makes getting the second Edge perfectly parallel to the first Edge really easy you can also use the track again but you still have to get it perfectly parallel to that first Edge otherwise you'll end up with a rhombus and no one likes a [Music] rhombus notice that I've cut all my parts off the edges of my 2x2s that's because most construction Lumber I've come across is flaton which tends to cup as it's exposed to changing moisture like on a patio if I cut all my parts off the edges of a flaton board I'm going to end up with something called rifton and rifton grain is really good at staying straighter over time when it gets [Music] wet the only other thing I'll say about this and I'll promise I'll move on is I am not trying to get a perfectly straight edge at the same time that I'm trying to cut the part off of the 2×12 because likely that part is going to Bow just a little bit as tension is released when it comes off the whole board so I'm just taking my circular saw freehand and just ripping it down because it's much faster than using those guides then I'm taking my track guide jig and making one Edge perfectly straight and then I'm taking my rip guide and making the opposite Edge parallel also the board is a good 6 in longer than I needed to be cuz the first 3 in and the last 3 in tend to be a little bit wonky with these jigs but the middle bit is nice and straight I'm still not cutting any of my parts down to final length yet they're a little bit long and that's because I'm going to glue some of them into wider panels and yes I realize the irony of me taking wider boards cutting them into narrower strips only to then glue them into wider panels again but what is woodworking if not slightly masochistic anyways these panels are going to be much more stable than a single wide flat on board but I suppose if you do find a 12in wide vertical grain piece of pine then use that and then maybe go buy a lottery ticket and then maybe win it and just go buy some patio chairs because this is what we have to deal with since this is going to be outdoor furniture I'm going to be using polyurethane glue the classic Gorilla Glue for the best compromise between moisture resistance and just usability now I suppose if you're really belt and suspenders you could use epoxy as well I just can't stand using epoxy I think the smells is horrible and it's just a big old mess and I'm also going to be putting these chairs under some covers and I'm not using them so polyurethane glue is going to do just fine I have a suspicion that the wood already has enough moisture in it but it's common to just Spritz a bit of water along the edges of your glue line to activate the polyurethane glue now I don't usually do this when I'm working not on camera but just to please you guys I'll do it couple of downsides with polyurethane glue first off once you open it you only have so long before it hardens up in the bottle so sometimes you can throw away more of it than you actually use other thing I have adorned myself with my gloves and my apron because if I get it on my clothes that's it they're done now as always I'm using clamping calls to keep the boards in alignment as I clamp them together and the glue dries I find using calls a lot more efficient than going through the rigoll of using a bunch of dowels or biscuits or dominoes to line everything up and these turn out way flatter anyway the only downside is that it does kind of need a bit more clamps something I see all the time is people grabbing their sander immediately after gluing up a panel and just attacking those joints that didn't quite line up because it seems kind of like the easy way but I promise that'll actually take longer than just simply grabbing a number four or a number five hand plane with a kind of a medium shaving and just quickly knocking down those joints if you're using calls like I did to glue up the panel in alignment and you should only need to do like one or two passes to get those nice and flush and then you can grab your sander and just quickly do a pass with AD grit and it'll be nice and ready for the next step there's ways that you can save money by lessening the amount of waste that you create and sometimes that means creatively putting Parts together like I've done here with two seat sides uh and the angle of the seat I've put them together so I can cut them both at the same time and at the end of it I'll save about 6 in of waist in this case between the two when compared to cutting them out individually one side's cut out now I'm simply going to use it to trace out my other side one thing with screws that I see people get wrong time and time again is not sinking the screw down to the appropriate depth let me show you what I mean if I were to send this screw in and counter sync it a typical amount look how many of the threads remain in the first piece these threads are going to prevent the screw from tightening the first piece into the second piece like that ideally the point on the screw where the smooth part transitions into the threads right here that point should should fall right on
